HIGH JEWELLERY – FREE EXPRESSION IN PARIS

High jewellery houses present their new women’s collection at January’s Paris Fashion Week.

In the precious conspiracy of these sensational pieces we undoubtedly find a shared desire: to raise the expression of femininity to a new level of freedom. Interpreted in the particular style and taste of each Maison in an ever-changing approach, exploring and exalting the contemporary woman.

At the Ritz hotel Chopard revealed all of its talent for creating the most extraordinary gems. Like the stars of the “Exceptional Gemstones” collection Chopard will be presenting in its entirety at the next Cannes festival.

Meanwhile for the press gathered in Paris, the Maison offered a sensational glimpse of the exceptional stars of Chopard’s next collection. Each one selected for purity and rarity from every corner of the globe by Caroline Scheufele, dominated by the magnetism of a trio of round-cut emeralds (32.16, 36, 80 and over 61.79 carats), and sided by the gemstone par excellence: the diamond, set in essential design allowing the stone to express all of its natural beauty. Energy that reaches out direct and powerful from the series of fancy diamonds, focused by an emerald-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond of over 33 carats.

▲ Chopard, Exceptional Gemstones Collection, the collection necklace with a 33.26 carat emerald-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond. / Chopard, Exceptional Gemstones Collection, titanium earrings with two 25.6 and 25.2 carat octagon cut emeralds, two 6.4 and 6.3 carat emerald-cut emeralds and brilliant cut emeralds (Colombia).

 

Maison Chanel delights with a preview entirely dedicated to tweed, expression of its savoir faire for gold and jewels in 45 examples. Chanel has managed to transpose into precious weft all the sartorial peculiarity of that Scotch carded wool, one of the couturier’s favourites, linked as it is with the nineteen-twenties and her intimate friendship with the duke  of Westminster. The softness, lightness, flexibility and natural irregularity of tweed are perfectly translated into a piece of jewellery through a meticulous, fine working-together of gold and platinum. The graphism chooses a rich colour palette: alongside classic white diamonds, onyx and lacquer, we discover the sparkling energy of stones like imperial topaz (20.40 carat), red spinel, tsavorite garnets and pink and yellow sapphires. Three jewellery watches in the collection measure the most precious moments of the Chanel woman.

Chanel, Tweed de Chanel Collection, “Tweed d’Or” yellow gold and platinum necklace with cultivated pearls, diamonds and a 20.40 carat oval cut imperial topaz. “Tweed d’Or” yellow gold and platinum earrings with cultivated pearls and diamonds. / Chanel, Tweed de Chanel Collection, Tweed Graphique white gold bracelet with onyx, diamonds and a singular 5.05 carat cushion-cut diamond. / Boucheron, Signature Collection, Point d’Interrogation Feuilles d’Acanthe necklace in white gold and diamonds.

 

Boldness, empathy, technical refinement and innovation are the foundations Boucheron built his grand empire on. Now from her own personal perspective Claire Choisne revisits the iconic “point d’interrogation”, a piece that entered the annals of high jewellery history in the late nineteenth century. A total of eight necklaces adorn the Signature de Boucheron collection. Incredibly light, almost impalpable and, like the original, all without clasp, making them quick and easy to put on. Independently. From the Lierre de Paris tremblant necklace with its characteristic ivy leaves enhanced by emeralds, to the emblematic transformable Plume de Paon, dominated by a 10.98 carat oval-cut Burmese sapphire. Pieces that faithfully focus on the style codes of the maison as dictated by Frederique Boucheron. Further enhanced by the talented twist of the creative director and rendered perfectly contemporary.

Vegetal Laces Watch, set with 240 brilliant cut diamonds (6.55 cts) and 14 marquise cut malachite (6.10 cts), white mother of pearl, 56P quartz movement. / Graff, Earrings with a total 48 carats of emeralds and diamonds (28 ct).

 

The appointment with Graff was no less than in Rue Saint Honoré! Her royal highness the Lesedi La Rona diamond and Meya Prosperity continue to give us fragments of beauty which Graff reinterprets in exceptional unique pieces. The one-of-a-kind earrings were wore in the Boutique inaugurated last year at 237 Rue Saint Honoré being a fine example, the magnetism of the emeralds adding to the gleam of the diamonds. Stones for which Graff chooses the sugar loaf cut as the star set in a 9 carat Colombian emerald ring. Like tiny fruits freshly-picked from the tree, the emerald droplets selected for the chandelier earrings are utterly delightful: 48 carats of pure beauty.


Cover pictureBoucheron Collection Signature Collier Point d’Interrogation Plume de Paon

About the author: Laura Canepa

Laura Canepa